Thank Heavens for Little Birds

 Photo credit: André Joseph Gallant

Photo credit: André Joseph Gallant

Most of us know the joy of roasting a whole chicken, lining a skillet with bird and veg, browning that skin to a light crisp and chomping down. Better than fried, better than confit, roasted poultry is, some may say, f'n amazing.

Cooking quail is that pleasure in miniature. A semi-boneless quail breast, the one here is from Manchester Farms, combines the benefits of poultry-in-the-whole with the plate-ability of a chop or filet. This seared and oven-roasted darling gets quite a treatment in a recipe coming Wednesday: whole smashed red potatoes, browned fennel bulbs, champagne-y fennel slaw and an orange glaze.