Tacos Los Plebes. 3077 Danielsville Rd. 706.208.1930

What rules about living in northeast Georgia is pretty clear: Options for ridiculously good Mexican food here far outnumber most places. I put strength behind that statement. Maybe I won't wager against Southern California or parts of Texas, but put this corner of the world up against New England, the Midwest, much of the South, or anywhere else that's not Mexico, and I feel confident that I'll keep my money. 

Northeast Georgia's blue collar Mexican food scene is so consistent, it's the bad stuff that stands out. Offer bland molé at your own risk. Leave lengua off the menu and face peril. Underseason the beans, and we'll turn off the neons for you.

In this crowded field, Tacos Los Plebes, a very good, two-year old taqueria in the back of the Sinaloa Supermercado (3077 Danielsville Rd.), can't ring loud the high striker bell. That clang has been muted by repeated strikes; our taquerias are just too damn strong. Tacos Los Plebes is yet another brawny torta-slinger in a crowded competition. This only means that choosing a taqueria destination is difficult, horribly so. It often comes down to location. So, if you find yourself in Norwood near the Madison County line, on the the way to Danielsville or Ila, because there aren't many reasons to go to Norwood, stop in Tacos Los Plebes. They've got those Mundet's apple sodas I love.

Cotija-capped lettuce mounds top the sopes (thin masa cakes, fried); their width is a cumbersome delight. Burritos packed tight with lengua, avocado, beans, and sour cream fulfill by sheer density. Tacos are simple and satisfying: skip the chorizo and try the tripe cooked crispy and soaking in guajillo sauce. Layers of meat, lettuce, avocado, tomatoes, and spicy mayo add up to a decent torta, as good as all the other places. Splurge and order the Cubano: ham, egg, chorizo and a few more greasy indulgences slathered inside a flaky loaf.

Is Tacos Los Plebes any better than NE Georgia's fine taco spots? More delicious than Mi Tierra? More fun than Tlaloc? Very little, objectively, sets them apart, so it's not easy to answer. I do know this: we're all best served by asking those questions again and again. Again and again.